“Same-same but different” is a phrase that is ubiquitous in SE Asia, and its meanings vary depending upon the speaker. A vendor trying to convince you that the North Face jacket is not a fake, or a chef trying to explain the taste of a tropical fruit you can’t find at home – same-same.
In my case, same-same but different means this posting about Hanoi will be similar to the last one – more stories and images about people and places that have touched our hearts. Hanoi is a city we can’t get enough of and yet it is so exhausting and all-consuming we are finally ready to head home.
The next two photos tell a sad story – legions of young and middle-aged men who seem to have little to do. We see them gathering in groups like this or sitting on their motorbikes, checking their phones. What becomes of a country that is emerging into a new level of prosperity if so many are left behind?
This game is popular – we see it on street corners and in parks, being played by men at all hours of the day. We noticed money exchanging hands with this game.
These little kids are Vietnam’s hope for the future. Rock, paper, scissors is apparently an international favourite.
A young man playing the violin in the park by the lake. There are not a lot of buskers, which we found surprising.
The dancers, on the other hand, are out most nights. There are traditional dances and small performances and then there is the dance-off. It seems to be open to anyone who wants to get up and twirl around. The kids were certainly up for it, and there were a few couples who appear to have had some practice. Smiling not allowed.
The lake is quite close to our hotel and is a magnet for night-time entertainment. There is a gorgeous restaurant that offers outdoor lakeside seating, and as is the strange case of so many restaurants of its ilk, it has a great view and mediocre Western food – soggy pizza and limp fries. We snagged one of the front row seats and ordered (expensive warmish) beer.
Speaking of food, we had an exceptional meal at Don’s Bistro, situated on West Lake, a much larger lake just north of the Old Quarter. Don is an expat chef who happens to be a dear friend of a friend, and so we popped by for lunch, a visit and a bike ride round the lake. Don’s Bistro has been around for a number of years and is the go-to place for locals and tourists alike when they want a bit of a treat meal, as it overlooks the lake, has stunning decor, flawless service and is still very affordable. As is often the case when I have beautiful food put in front of me, I get so excited I forget to take photos. I did remember to take a shot of our desserts.
Passionfruit creme brûlée ( served in scoured-out passionfruit halves), and vanilla bean ice-cream in chocolate cup.
After lunch, we borrowed two of Don’s vintage Japanese postman bikes and rode around the lake – about 17 km. The first part of the ride was through ex-pat neighbourhoods and nicer homes. This is one of the few places in Hanoi you can ride a bicycle and not encounter much traffic.
And now for some random shots of buildings. There are many really gorgeous buildings in Hanoi, but they are often partially blocked by high fences. I was able to take several unobstructed shots of very interesting buildings and homes in Hanoi, and initially they will appear to be shabby, but they are the heart of the city.
This is an example of a Vietnamese and a French colonial roofline. The French (on the right) has high windows and carved embellishments. The Vietnamese has a low roof and tiny window. Apparently, this style developed because citizens were not allowed to look at the King when he passed by, so they built these tiny windows so they could sneak a peek without being detected.
Many buildings are narrow and tall – built that way to avoid paying higher taxes (smaller footprint); resulting in some fanciful structures. We’re wondering – one flat to a floor? Two? I would love to go on a house tour in Hanoi, if there are such things. As is the case with so many densely populated cities, so much is hidden from sight and drab doors open up to reveal surprising beauty.
Not a lot surprising beauty here, I wouldn’t think.
A banyan tree, common to SE Asia, among other countries. So beautiful.
We took a walking tour of the Old Quarter with two students who were practicing their English. The Old Quarter began as the merchant area (still is), with 36 guilds. Over time, the guilds have changed, but the streets are still representative of certain trades and services, which makes shopping very practical.
On Tin Street, our guides told us about the furnace-type objects sitting on the ground. They are used to burn fake money to send to their deceased loved ones. This will help them out in the afterlife.
The students were very sweet and tried very hard, but English was still as struggle for them. It didn’t matter – they pointed out a number of things we wouldn’t have known about, including the herbal medicine street. It used to be run by Chinese, but when they fled after the war, the Vietnamese took over. Fascinating, although I could not find anyone who spoke English, so buying a big bag of herbs would be out of the question.
The fruit vendors ride around on bicycles and carve pineapple right in front of you. A whole pineapple for just over a dollar, and carved in a spiral in about a minute.
Pay close attention to the size of this street – it has to do with the next photo.
Let’s pretend you own a Bentley. You know, the car so exclusive it goes by one initial. If you owned a Bentley, would you honestly drive it through the tiny streets of The Old Quarter, with hundreds of motorbikes, bicycles, cars, delivery trucks and grubby tourists brushing by it? Well, if you had a Bentley it probably comes with a driver, but still… So you can imagine our surprise when we turned a corner and came upon this sight.
At first we thought, “must be a knock-off”. I don’t think so – even the Vietnamese aren’t this talented. So why is a Bentley parked in the Old Quarter? Another imponderable.
Still in the Old Quarter, we came upon this funny little bar – Hang-Over. Aptly named, I’m sure, as this is the ‘hood for 50 cent beer, but the mother in me reacted right away. “Young people, do not get a tattoo or piercing in a bar called Hang-Over. That approach to over-drinking may extend to the tattoo “artist” and you’ll be sorry.”
Weddings here can be elaborate affairs that require pre-wedding photos, well in advance of the actual date. Today, we saw not one, but two pre-weddings – one of them photo-bombed by a little kid on a bike.
Our trip is over. So many more stories and photos left on the cutting-room floor, but it is time to go now. At least for the next few weeks. We’re flying out tomorrow, and will spend the next five or six weeks in B.C., seeing dear family and friends again. After that, we’re on the road again – driving across the country in search of big Canadian 150th birthday stories, and hoping that not every campsite and motel room has already been booked. I’m sure we’re not the only ones with the same idea.
We’ll see you back on the blog mid-May, and hopefully see many of you face-to-face over the next several months.
Thank you so much for coming along with us, and for your emails and blog comments. It meant the world to us. See you soon!
Leaving Ourselves Behind 
Ginny and Steve I thoroughly enjoyed reading of your adventure. Safe travels “home”, and … Ottawa is all booked up, as I have tried !!!!
Lisa Sent from my iPhone
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See you this summer, Lisa, I hope. I bet Ottawa was booked up a year ago. We’re thinking we might be in Halifax for July 1 – see which way the wind blows.
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I’m sure all your blog followers would agree, you managed to take a hoard of friends along on your travels and keep us eager for the next installment – not an easy thing to do, and you did it really, really well. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences and insights. Tom and I hope to see you back on the West Coast. We still have 10 days to go in Argentina. Let’s keep in touch.
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Thanks for those lovely words, Shelley It is so much easier to write to an audience and the bonus for us is we have a record of our trip. It’s amazing how much it all blurs together after a while.
Have a wonderful rest of your trip – we’re so keen to hear all about it. I hope we do see you as well, but if we miss you this time, we’ll see you in the fall for sure.
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You reminded us of how much we enjoyed Hanoi with your vivid descriptions and interesting observations. We were there in the fall of 2003 and it does not seemed to have changed as much as Halong Bay and Sapa, based on your experience. We look forward to seeing you when you return and to hear more stories of your adventures. We wish you a safe journey home.
Alison and Steve
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It’s interesting you should say that about Hanoi. We have no idea of how it looked before, but it does not appear to be undergoing a building boom (as you can see from the photos!), the way the rest of Vietnam is.
I bet the same old ladies you passed by 12 years ago are still sitting outside their little shops. That is a huge part of its charm.
See you soon.
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Hi Ginny,
Just want to thank you for the great descriptions of your travels. Libby and I really enjoyed them.
All the best,
Roman
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Thanks so much Roman & Libby – glad to hear you enjoyed the blog. Maybe our paths will cross this summer!
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For a moment I thought nobody else noticed these large amount of men doing nothing 🙂 great post!
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There is a lot of discussion about the attitude of some (some, not all) Vietnamese men, and how and why that came to be. It is all fascinating to me but as a casual tourist, I’m not in a position to do anything but observe. I am curious though.
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Well, if u find out sth on this issue – please let me know 🙂
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Thanks for the trip. We enjoyed your adventure. Hopefully we will see you this summer in Ontario.
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We’ll see you this summer for sure. Looking forward to catching up on everything you’ve been up to.
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Thank you! Ginny and Stephen. I have enjoyed seeing you in my inbox and finding out what you’re thinking; look forward to your comments on our home bodies from coast to coast, xomc.
see you soon
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See you soon!
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It has been a wonderful “ride” – accompanying you on your travels in SEA! So sorry it has come to an end; but, I am sure you are looking forward to catching up with family and friends once again. The two of us look forward to hearing more when you “are on the road again”.
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We’re back with Alex and Alanna for a few days – nice way to have a “soft” landing with dear family, and it is very good to be back in B.C.
Talk to you again in a few weeks.
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Thanks for sharing your fabulous journey, Ginny and Stephen. We look forward hearing more in person this summer…the door is always open on Farren Lake.
Safe trip back to Vancouver, and enjoy the joy of sleeping in the same bed for more than 3-4 days!!!
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Kris – I can already picture us diving off your dock!
We arrived back in Vancouver today – lucky us – it was a gorgeous day, so the mountains and ocean were at their finest.
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For one doomed to stay where I am awhile, for medical reasons, this trip has been wonderful and allowed my mind to take me where my body will not go. See you soon. Roy
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Thank you dear Roy. We will keep our fingers crossed for a more cooperative body for next year, so you will be able to plan a trip of your own.
see you soon,
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Thank you Ginny and Stephen for taking us along on your journey! What a wonderful experience you shared with us. Safe travels home…hopefully we’ll see you sometime soon.
Donna
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Hope to see you soon, Donna! We’ll be in touch once we’re back on Gabe.
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Ginny & Stephen, I have enjoyed reading every single blog. I feel as though I have been travelling with you. I will miss reading these wonderful stores. Safe trip home to Vancouver, and maybe we will see you in St. Catharines? Vera & Frank Lappano
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thanks Vera & Frank. For sure we will see you in Ontario this summer. It’s been such a long time – what a lot of catching up we have!
Be in touch soon.
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Enjoyed your Hanoi pixs and stories, showed them to our kids, they recognized a lot!!
See you soon
Danielle
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See you soon!
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Ginny and Stephen, We have seen so much of the world but never SE Asia! If we never make it, I feel blessed to have had a front row seat on your 4 month tour of a lifetime. We will miss your wonderful insights that brought tears, smiles, sadness, and/or outright laughter. Travelling can be hard and exhausting, so I have such admiration for your discipline and marvel at how you maintained the almost daily pace of your blog! We loved your photos but it is your wonderful way with words that made all your entries miniature treasures. A huge thank you, safe trip home and big hugs from bey and Andy.
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Thank you Bey for such lovely sentiments. You’re right – travelling can be quite exhausting at times, but the newness of everything provides its own adrenaline rush. It has become a pleasurable addiction – that wondering what lies around the next corner.
We just arrived back in Vancouver today to sunshine, snow-covered mountain ranges and the clean smell of the ocean. So good to come back to see Alex and Alanna, and now, several hours later, the adrenaline is leaving and the jet lag is setting in. A few days and we’ll be as good as new.
See you this summer, I hope.
xo Ginny & Stephen
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Loved the stories. Hopefully hear from you if you travel this way.
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