For the past 90 days, we have sweltered and sweated our way through India; our faces dripping and our clothes sticky. Three days ago, after five hours of bus travel, we climbed 2200 metres into the foothills of the Himalayas and left the heat and humidity behind.
Our last week in India will be spent in India’s oldest hill station – the former summer playground of the British upper crust and the current favourite of newlyweds and Indian families fleeing the spring and summer heat. Today in Delhi it was 38 degrees; in Shimla, it was 23 degrees with a light breeze. Once night falls, we will need coats and hoodies. We’ve been sleeping under two heavy blankets and no air conditioning – heaven.
Shimla, with the snowy peaks of the Himalayas on the horizon.
We have been putting our legs and lungs to the test – the town is built on seven steep hills, and the inclines can be brutal. Some of the smaller staircases are a little heartstopping – a fall down these stairs and you would be airborne.
We’ve been able to soften our ascents and descents by sticking to the broader roads, most of them pedestrian-only. The main part of Shimla’s centre core is defined by The Ridge, a large open area ringed with small greenspaces, monuments to Gandhi and Indira Gandhi, and vistas of the town and mountains. This is where everyone gathers- Ground Zero for the millions of selfies that threaten to drive me mad. I’m trying to sidestep fogey attitudes, but for some reason, selfie-nation gets under my skin in a big way. There is no background too innocuous for a selfie; no opportunity wasted for yet another shot of me, glorious me.
Don’t hate me cause I’m beautiful. (at some point I may look around and appreciate the scenery, or…maybe not.)
Selfies aside, without cars and motorbikes and tuk-tuks dominating the landscape, the people-watching becomes far more interesting.
Stephen has been collecting photos of mannequins – this started last year in SE Asia, where the mannequins were bizarre and downright scary. He’s found a few in India and noticed this one – her hair cut with pinking shears by a stoned best friend who also gave her really bad advice on eyeglasses. The gorgeous girls in front of the mannequin wanted us to take a photo of them as well.
We stopped in a square for a break from our mountaineering, and almost immediately these two little brothers began tearing around in front of us – trying to get our attention and showing off outrageously. Of course, we were encouraging them until their mother scolded them to behave properly, and on her instruction, they came over to practice their English. “Are you from America?” “Do you like India?” “Thank-you for speaking to us.”
There are a number of very good schools in Shimla, and these two boys are attending one of them – learning their subjects in English.
Shimla is different from much of India in a number of ways. Due to the steep terrain, traffic is confined to lower roads, which means much of the city core is like a walk in the park – peaceful and stress-free. There are very few beggars here, so hopefully that means there is a little more money to go around for more people. There is very little garbage on the streets. There are do-not-litter signs up everywhere, and plenty of garbage cans. Shimla has declared itself a smoke-free city and smoking inside and outside is punishable by fine. We did not see a single smoker – amazing. And – hallelujah – spitting is another civic misdemeanour. We did see a few spitters, but it’s a hard habit to break.
I marvelled at this store. Does this mean anyone could kit themselves out in full uniform and pass themselves off as police officers? Think of the revenue possibilities.
Two of Shimla’s police officers in ceremonial garb – patrolling the streets.
Due to the incredibly steep inclines on many of the streets, moving goods is done by sheer brute human force. You can imagine what four cases of pop weighs, held in place by heavy nylon straps. We saw many such amazing feats of strength – including incredibly, a full-sized refrigerator.
The main shopping street, called The Mall, weaves around the Ridge on either side and runs for seven km. This is where tourists and locals congregate, and where some of the town’s main attractions and interesting architecture are found.
One very curious business enterprise in Shimla are bathroom scales. Vendors set up blankets on the ground with the scales in front (and mysteriously, there are often horseshoes set up alongside – perhaps a token of good luck for the weigh-ee?) The cost is 10 rupees – about 20 cents. I passed by a number of decrepit scales until I came to this lady, with her bright shiny digital scale, unadorned with horseshoes – just the scale. I liked her style, plus she charged double her competitor’s prices – 20 rupees, so with the logic of “you get what you pay for”, I removed my shoes, and hopped on. Aha! I’ve lost at least 10 pounds – worth every rupee.
Thus encouraged, we continued on to our destination – The Oberoi Cecil Hotel.
Built 130 years ago on the site of Tendril Cottage, where Rudyard Kipling lived and wrote his novels, The Oberoi Cecil played a large role in the social life of the British Raj era and was the scene of many balls and galas. As Kipling noted, Shimla at the height of British rule had a reputation for ” frivolity, gossip and intrigue.” The Cecil no doubt added to that reputation.
It was completely refurbished in 1997, in the original understated old money style and while we could not afford $400 a night to stay there, we decided to stop for lunch in the atrium, just to absorb the atmosphere.
Our delightful waiter would have noticed our less-than-polished appearance and our consternation over the menu prices. When we decided to forego lunch and share the least expensive item on the menu, he nodded as approvingly as though we had just chosen the Himalayan trout, paired with a crisp white wine.
Our coffee, served with tea cakes and complimentary biscuits. Coffee was excellent, cakes were a touch dry. Our bill was just over $30. (Lunch would have been just under $100). Nonetheless, a wonderful experience.
The main dining room of the Oberoi Cecil. Can you not imagine the glasses of sherry and the poached fish and the dinner conversations?
Shimla still has many buildings from its heyday as the summer capital. From 1864 to 1939, the entire government of India would flee the heat of Calcutta and transport all the files and documents of government to Shimla. It became not just the centre of government, but also the stage for the social life of the British elite. Picnics, balls, galas, hunting, and amateur theatre at the Gaiety Theatre became the focus of each Season.
The Gaiety Theatre has been beautifully restored, and on-site historian Mr. Gautam gave us a very animated and interesting tour of the theatre and explanation of its history. He modestly shook his head when I ask him if he was also an actor, and acknowledged that I was not the first to come to that conclusion.
The theatre was a huge diversion, and each summer plays by Shakespeare and George Bernard Shaw would be staged by amateur British actors to a British-only audience. No Indians allowed – neither on stage nor in the audience.
Today, about 15 local theatre groups still perform on the well-worn stage.
View from the stage.
Restoration projects are happening all over Shimla – so many grand mansions that have sadly been left to ruin. This one – Bantony Castle – is almost impossible to imagine that it can be reclaimed. It has deteriorated to the point where the roof has collapsed in spots, so interior damage must be severe. However, restoration is in the works – it would be so interesting to see when the work is completed.
The simple, elegant Christ Church Cathedral is another landmark from the British era. Built in 1846, it is one of the oldest churches in northern India. We walked around the side to the manse, where they were serving Good Friday hot cross buns and coffee.
Shopping in Shimla is a curious mix of Western knock-offs (Puma, Adidas), carved wooden toys and keychains and embroidered clothing and wool shawls. We bought a large shawl made of yak wool from Tibet, (which we will likely use as a lap blanket) – our only purchase so far, other than light clothing. There were many beautiful things along the way, but we didn’t want to have to carry stuff along with us as we travelled, so we’ve bought nothing. We may end up spending our remaining rupees at the Delhi airport.
Fancy gold jewellery is a huge thing in India – for weddings and for everyday use. While this jewellery is far too ornate for me, it is perfectly suited to Indian women, with their beautiful saris, their white teeth and red lipstick and their dark colouring.
There are a number of very good jewellery stores in Shimla – here is an example of some typical Indian gold jewellery.
This has nothing to do with shopping, but is an interesting fact of life in Shimla. Since vehicles are limited to the lower roads, traffic is horrendous and parking is at a premium. Most of the roads have limited shoulders and/or are on very steep inclines. Many hotels have just a handful of parking spaces for their guests and this is what they look like. Can you imagine the nerves required to park cars on this rooftop?
Sunset at Shimla.
We’re in Shimla for another four days and have lots more to tell you about. I’ll be sending out another posting before we leave.
Happy Easter from India!
19 thoughts on “Shimla’s mountain air: cool at last”
Happy Easter, Ginny and Steve! Happy for your heat-reprieve!
Thanks Shelagh – yes, we had just about had it with the tropical sun and extreme heat. We’re seeing so few foreign tourists now – March is when everything starts to really heat up.
Ginny, so glad you could visit Shimla and report on it. I’ve read many an account of the Raj and Shimla always seemed the oasis in whatever storm, weather or otherwise. Did carrying stuff up steep slopes not remind you a tad of Guanajuato, where it’s the same kind of topography, although not as steep. I recall seeing men carrying several 50lb cement bags up to a construction site. Wonderful that you are ending your trip in such an upbeat mood. Safe travels back to Canada. Look forward to seeing you in the summer on Gab. And looking forward to your further accounts of what appears to be a marvellous “hill station”.
You do need the good lungs for Guanajuato as well, although that city at least has the flat centre area to return to. I remember our host’s advice – “you’re never lost in Guanajuato – just walk downhill – all roads lead to the core.”
This is the perfect way to end our time in India – we’re a little shocked that it is almost over.
Looking forward as well to seeing you in the summer.
I have so enjoyed following your travel through India. As always, you find such interesting things to tell us about, and your photos are perfect accompaniments to your words. What an adventure!
Thanks Margy – I’m glad you’ve enjoyed following our trip. It has been the biggest adventure yet – still a lot to process.
See you on Gabe!
Thanks for another interesting adventure in India! What an interesting place you are at in the hill country. It must be so great to be out of the heat and in a place where people aren’t allowed to spit! (probably not funny to you but it is to us not having to deal with it). Enjoy the rest of your trip and safe travels home. where is home now?
Hi Rohana – nice to hear from you! I guess you’re back from Mexico now and settling into your new home?
We have no home yet – we’re still “on the road” for a while, but we’ll be back in B.C. for a couple of months – housesitting on Gabe for 2 months, and then off on a truck and trailer adventure in North America for a while.
We are enjoying a sunny and quiet Easter weekend on Gabriola. We have loved the blogs and look forward to talking with you for more details of your wonderful trip. Would you like us to cook you an Indian meal? Hugs
We’ve been eating bland Western food since our illness – lots of plain omelets! An Indian meal cooked by you two – now that would be a treat!
See you fairly soon!
Happy Easter Ginny & Stephen. Looking forward to the 8th.
Us too, Mum and Dad – see you very soon. xoxo
Hi Ginny and Steve, hope the Easter bunny was good to you. Of all your travels through India, this would be the place I would be drawn to, that lovely mountain air. See you soon.
Happy Easter to you and Oscar, Joy. Interestingly, the two places both Steve and I have enjoyed the most have been Shimla and Munnar – both mountain destinations and both so different.
Looking forward to catching up with you soon. xoxo
Happy Easter to the two of you as well! I’m not surprised to hear you are loving the change in temperature in your new location, not to mention the cleanliness compared to some of the places you’ve been! If you keep climbing those hills, you may lose even more weight! You might want to get on that lady’s scale one more time before you head home 🙂
We just got back from a 12-km. trek – downhill was easy! We watch the locals – they climb slowly and steadily and just get it done. I wonder how long it takes before this kind of climbing becomes easier.
What a lovely place to finish up your journey through this overwhelming and fascinating country, thanks for sharing with us. Have a safe trip home, hope we get a chance to see you, take care!
We’re back on Gabe from early May to early July. We’ll definitely see you and Donna – no question! We’re almost neighbours.
Loved the stories and photos of Shimla. Look forward to seeing you when you get “home”.