This pithy summary of Edmonton comes to you from former premier Ralph Klein; one which damns the city with faint praise and doesn’t begin to do it justice. Klein wasn’t lying about the mosquitoes. As for the socialists – yes, it would seem they are here, armed with their bicycles and hemp shopping bags and liberal views. They help to strike a balance in an oil-defined province.
Edmonton’s skyline is dominated by building cranes, a good mix of old and new buildings and plenty of greenspace. The city is bustling with upgrades and new builds and road construction. There is a robust feeling of growth and prosperity here, without the punishing housing costs – a Canadian city that is still affordable.
We arrived in Edmonton with few preconceived ideas, other than it has brutally cold winters and was once the home of Wayne Gretzky. Since The Great One has not been in Edmonton for 30 years, we were obviously in need of an update.
We stayed at an Airbnb in the Whyte Avenue area – known for its leafy residential streets, and cluster of shops, cafes, cinemas and street art. Our host was Janice, a New Zealander who has lived in Edmonton for 20 years. We were very warmly welcomed, and invited to borrow their bikes, pick from their raspberry patch and we even shared a dinner with them one night.
Our host Janice, with her brother Ross on the left and partner Edwin on the right.
Their backyard, where we spent many an enjoyable hour reading and relaxing in the shade. We stayed in the basement suite, but their garage suite gave us some interesting ideas for a future home.
Edmonton has many neighbourhoods; each of them with a distinctive flavour and look. We really enjoy the older areas, where there are lots of trees, lush wild gardens and a mix of homes.
The North Saskatchewan River snakes through the city and a series of trails were constructed on either side of the river that run for miles and miles. Lucky Edmontonians – they can bike, run, walk their dogs (generous off-leash areas are also provided) or go for a leisurely stroll – sheltered from cars and surrounded in most areas by trees. We took out bikes a couple of times, and just zoomed along on trails and over bridges like this one.
Edmonton has a really strong food scene and as it happened, Taste of Edmonton was on while we were there. This celebration of local restaurant, food truck and beverage culture was enhanced by nightly bands and attractions. I have no food photos for you – our bite-sized servings of Braised Short Rib & Mash and Almond Satay Thai Noodle Salad were un- photogenically brown and beige.
People-watching was the usual entertaining thing – three young brothers daring each other to jump off a concrete ledge; oblivious to the young couple enthusiastically making out right in front them. The setting was just behind the stately Alberta Legislature, where we were quite tickled to see the Reflecting Pool, just beyond the fountain, being enjoyed as a swimming pool, with nary a guard in sight to chase them away.
An interesting diversion was a 20-minute trip along former CPR tracks over the High Level Bridge from the old Strathcona neighbourhood to downtown. We boarded a heritage electric streetcar and listened to a brief history of the streetcars while we slowly made our way along. This service is run by the Edmonton Radial Railway Society, entirely on a volunteer basis by society members.
A view from the bridge:
We took a self-guided Art Tour through downtown where dozens of art installations, sculptures, murals and paintings are located.
A clever installation, called Recycles 2001. Made of found materials, it is a testament to Edmontonian’s love of the bicycle.
The Aboriginal Walk of Honour is a tribute to indigenous artists in the arts and film industry. Among the notables:
The Neon Sign Museum is a captivating collection of Edmonton’s old commercial neon signs, gathered from all over the city and mounted outside on a long brick wall.
Right around the corner, we stumbled upon Rogers Place. A statue, entitled Wayne Gretzky 1989, stands outside, commemorating the Oilers past glories.
Edmonton’s downtown is particularly charming because it is such a mix of old and new. The arena, flanked by new skyscrapers and the historic Mercer building.
Around the corner from Rogers Place, an installation called Pillars of the Community 2016. Each side depicted “unsung heroes, daily faces and less-heard people.” I was struck by the profoundly moving expression of this man – neither defiant nor defeated.
A trip to Edmonton is probably not complete without a visit to the West Edmonton Mall – the largest mall in North America. What does the largest mall look like, you ask? Well, it houses two hotels, nine attractions, including a waterpark, golf course and ice skating rink. There are over 100 dining venues, and over 800 stores. We were looking for shoes for Stephen and had 64 shoe stores from which to choose. We both suffer from mall anxiety, but strangely the WEM elicits nothing more than a strangely floating sensation and frank curiosity. How does one make a purchasing decision here? We tried to get a couple of crowd shots, but the mall is not crowded. The parking lots are jammed, and then the 90,000-200,000 people who visit daily simply … disperse.
Watching this young skater was calming and a bit surreal – why not go for a skate while everyone around you shops for bed linens or eats ice cream?
A commercial scene a little closer to our hearts is Edmonton’s Whyte Avenue. We could walk there from our Airbnb – to find dinner among Ethiopian, Thai, Vietnamese, British pub, Mexican and bistro offerings. We could shop for organic produce, vintage dresses, or Fluevog shoes. We could also dig around and discover the street art.
This grabbed us – ET or the hand of God? Painted by BIP (Believe in People), an anonymous artist who paints all over the world.
This six-storey mural, by definitely-not-anonymous artist Okuda San Miguel, was commissioned by local restaurateur and filmmaker Michael Maxxis, and was completed in mid-July of this year.
Whyte Avenue is home to the Old Strathcona Farmers Market. You won’t find lemons or pineapples here – everything sold must be locally grown, baked or hand-made. It was a bit of a mob scene, but that’s what we got for arriving at 10:30 on a Saturday morning.
I liked the donut lady – her offerings presented like the precious delectables that they are.
The usual market line-up – blueberries, bison and beets, peonies, pesto, and pillowy perogies. If someone can tell me why these cabbages are shaped like rolled cones, I would appreciate it.
There are so many things to see and do in and around Edmonton and we just scratched the surface. We missed the magnificent Art Gallery, Fort Edmonton and Elk Island. We didn’t stop by for a drink at CP Hotel Macdonald. We did get to Muttart Conservatory. This is a landmark in Edmonton made distinctive by four glass pyramids that house over 700 species in four biomes – Arid, Tropical, Temperate and a Feature biome that changes several times a year.
The Feature biome, Museum of the Moon, featured a massive Moon model by UK artist Luke Jerram that has travelled the world and is currently showing in Edmonton. It was accompanied by space-appropriate music and space-imagined plantings.
And finally – our Edmonton friends and family. Three years ago, we didn’t know a soul in Edmonton. Now, we have six lovely connections ( eight, if you count our new Airbnb friends).
Our daughter-in-law Alanna grew up in Edmonton. Her parents (divorced and remarried) still live here and when we suggested getting together, both sets of parents invited us for dinner – all six of us. We enjoyed two wonderful dinners, long conversations about a variety of subjects and now we feel like part of Alanna’s clan. We tried to figure out how we might refer to them – are we in-laws? We decided in-laws is not quite right, so we’re pleased to consider ourselves friends.
From left: Stephen, Brenda, Mitch, Heather and Doug.
My cousin Maureen and her husband John moved to Edmonton in December to be closer to their kids and grandkids. Luckily, we were able to connect and have a great dinner and good long visit. Maureen and I have our origins in Gaspe, then Montreal, then southern Ontario and now out west. This is one of the things we are discovering as we travel – we all have interesting flight paths.
That’s enough for now. We loved Edmonton, extended our planned time here by another three days and it still wasn’t enough. We’ll be back (although not in February).
We spent today at the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village just outside Edmonton, and it merits a (much shorter) blog posting all of its own. Coming soon…
Hi Ginny, i can’t believe how much Edmonton has changed. This is where my parents came to when we immigrated to Canada in 1957, lived there for many years. Thanks for the memories.
Joy
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Our host told us we were exceptionally lucky because the bugs weren’t bad and the sun was out, but still…we’d come back again to see all the things we missed.
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The city has no doubt changed enormously since I was there in the Stone Age (1972). It looks like a delightful place, these days.
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I lived in Toronto in 1972 – it wasn’t exactly a happening place then either. I think Edmonton lives with an undeserved bad rap.
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I look forward to a more extensive visit to many parts of Canada, in the summer of 2020. Edmonton will be a part of that journey.
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You make us nostalgic for the city we left 17 years ago to retire to Gabriola Island. We lived in the Old Strathcona area and have fond memories of Whyte Avenue. Thank you for the trip down memory lane.
Alison and Steve
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You lived in a great area – lots of beautiful streets to walk around on and an ever-changing and growing Whyte Ave. Nice to see your old ‘hood.
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We were looking forward to this post and curious about what you might say about our fair city. We were not disappointed! It was a delight to get someone else’s perspective on something we so often take for granted! I think the two of you managed to highlight many different aspects of our city in a very short time frame. As “not so much in-laws, but friends”, we hope you return someday to see the sites you missed this time around.
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It’s so true – we live in a place and stop “seeing” it. Hopefully we’ll be back again before too long.
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Who knew? I’ll be putting this on my destination list. Thank you for sharing your adventures.
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Oh, good to hear. And there are so many sites within an hour’s drive of the city. We didn’t even get to the Art Gallery or to the many private galleries – I’m sure you would be so interested in them.
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Who knew? I lived in Edmonton briefly, and unhappily, in the early 70s, and then spent lots of time there while making connections from the municipal airport to the NWT. It looks like a lovely city now…great tour!
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Thanks Margy – Edmonton reminds me of Winnipeg – extremely friendly people, beautiful affordable old homes and a real sense of community. Our host lived in Vancouver for 10 years and felt a lonely disconnect – within a few months of living in Edmonton, she felt like she was “in Canada.”
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Edmonton sure has changed and what a pleasant surprise to hear how cosmopolitan it has become. Looks like a great place to visit. Thanks for sharing!
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I think one reason more people don’t choose to live there is because of the brutalizing winters. It’s a beautiful, welcoming, friendly, cozy place, with tons to do – but you’ve got to love winter.
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Ginny, my first blog experience and it took you both to get me here .Great write up on our fair and wonderful city and boy have to go see some of those places in your pics.
We miss you today and look forward to hearing about your Lesser Slave Lake experience, our Alberta ocean.
Thanks for your kind words, we had a great week with you both and we welcome you back to the Sugar Shack anytime.
Cheers on your adventures!
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Thanks Janice – we miss your kind hospitality – no question we’ll be back to stay with you again next time.
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Thanks for making us want to include Edmonton on some future cross-Canada trip!
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Kathy, there is so much to see right in central Alberta – you could spend lots of time in this area alone.
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I grew up in Edmonton. It is so nice to hear that you two enjoyed it. My first apartment was on Whyte Avenue – love that area! It makes me want to be a tourist in the city again!
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It’s always fun to be a tourist in your own city – you tend to see all the things you kept putting off when you lived there.
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I am so home sick seeing your great pixs from edmonton.
We immigrated there and lived there on and off for 20 years!
People helped us so much to adapt and feel home!!
Thank you Ednontonians we might come back one day!!
Danielle
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And now I know what you miss about Edmonton, Danielle. there is so much heart in that city – it has a lot of what we’re looking for. I think people in the prairies are a special breed – very down to earth and friendly.
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Another great post, Ginny. Interesting and educational for one who has never been to this fair city. Sounds like you are continuing to have wonderful travels.
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Joan, we haven’t had a bad stop yet – most places have something to offer and some much more than others.
We are currently taking refuge in a motel in Red Deer – left a day early from Lesser Slave Lake because of “extreme thunderstorms”, but a good chance to get laundry done, and catch up on few things that don’t get taken care of in a campground (like a pedicure!) It’s all fun.
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