Leaving Ourselves Behind

For the second time on our trip to Greece, we have felt quite buffeted about by the tourist hordes, (of which we are a part) and it has somewhat detracted from our full enjoyment of this very beautiful island.

So..confounded, confused and at times a bit cross, we have nonetheless been quite captivated. Our six days here have not been long enough to see everything – we are leaving wanting more.

Our plan was to stay in Old Town, Corfu for the whole time and then either rent a car or take the bus to outlying beaches and small villages for day trips. This was not the ideal plan. Our advice to you would be to stay in Old Town for three or four days, then rent a car, or take the bus and explore the rest of the island at your leisure; staying at two or three other spots to capture the full effect of the island.

The architecture of Old Town Corfu has a strong Venetian influence, dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries, with French and British influences coming later. The town is simply stunning, set on the harbour and made up of a number of pedestrian-friendly avenues and dozens of tiny, twisting alleyways designed to get lost and found again.

We rented a third-floor apartment (no elevator)overlooking one of the tiny narrow alleyways. It was exactly what I had hoped for – spacious, atmospheric and with a front-row view from our kitchen window of the Church of Agios Spyridon, built in 1589.

We watched the city come to life in the morning and quieten down at night. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of swallows who migrate to Corfu for the summer and fall, and we watched their avian ballet close up, as they swooped, soared and chirruped each dawn and dusk.

One night we were woken by the most fantastically dramatic thunderstorm – lightening strikes and claps of thunder that went on for over an hour.

We even witnessed part of a wedding.

To walk around Old Town is to be bombarded with images that all beg to be photographed. Although much of the architecture is similar in design and colour, every corner brings a slightly different vista.

Cafes and restaurants sprout up everywhere. While there are a number of large, established restaurants with fancy terraces, there are also dozens of tiny places with perhaps a half-dozen tables set right out on the street.

Shopping in Corfu is a dream and surprisingly affordable. While there is no end of tourist tat, there are also many small shops dedicated to handcrafted clothing, shoes and design pieces. This shop specialized in linen and cotton clothing; many of them priced at a very reasonable 40-60 euros ($60-$80). Once again, I am feeling a bit sad about my overstuffed carry-on bag, which has very little room for souvenirs.

I loved this shop. It was closed on the Sunday we strolled by, but what I most loved about it was the pair of perfect little handmade baby shoes hanging there – not being stolen – just hanging there, with the store closed and Corfu karma ensuring they would still be there on Monday morning. Also – Corfoot – great name.

Many stores like this one – beautiful inside and out.

Did you notice anything about these photos? I managed to take all of these photos and many more, without having too many people around. So, yes, even though Corfu is one of the most popular islands in Greece, it is still possible to find your quiet corner at times.

However, Corfu has a very robust cruise business, and therein lies the rub. Today there was just one ship, with 3274 passengers. Tomorrow, there will be three ships, with a total of 6508 passengers. The geography of Old Town simply means that all these tourists will be funnelled into narrow spaces, creating logjams at times.

Buses pick up passengers from the port and drop them at the edge of Old Town. A tour group heading toward town through Spianada Square.

We have a rather funny story about this phenomenon. There is a famous bakery and ice cream parlour in town called Papagiogis, owned since 1924 by the third-generation Dafnis family. This place is a big deal – everyone makes their way there for a cone or cup of the most amazing homemade ice cream.

We had already been there once and were headed for another cone on a different night when we saw a huge group heading toward the shop. We almost ran, to try and get ahead of the group and once inside the store, we overheard one of the servers remarking to another, “Here comes the walking dead.”

It was so cynical and so tourist-weary that we had to laugh, although they did look a bit sheepish at being overheard. I had the dark chocolate with kumquats – the latter a Corfu specialty, similar to a small bitter orange.

This fruit and vegetable stand was just around the corner from our place and the subject of numerous photographs. An incredible still-life of Corfu’s delectable fruit – kumquats, tamarind, dragonfruit, figs.

Apropos of nothing, I wanted to show you this electric car. There were a few of them around Old Town, and they’re interesting to look at, practical and a curiosity to me as they make a SmartCar look like a bus – there appears to be zero trunk space.

The history of Corfu is rich and complicated, which means I would have to do a lot more research than I’m willing to do, so I’ll offer you a quick overview, with a lot left out.

Liston Street was once reserved for nobility. One’s name had to be on a list of the Libro d’Oro to be allowed to have one’s frocks dust the shiny cobblestones. That has all changed of course – even the “walking dead” can tromp through here. Nowadays, Liston Street is closed to vehicles and lined with lovely restaurants and cafes – it makes for a very pleasant stroll.

Old Town Corfu is flanked by two fortresses. The Old Fortress was restored by the Venetians during the 15th-16th century, with additions being made by the British between 1815-1864. A moat was created for defence purposes, and the fortress is accessible by crossing a stone bridge. Entrance is free and in addition to roaming the grounds and climbing on stone walls, it is possible to visit a couple of small rooms with information about the various conflicts. A visit to the Fortress also provides incredible views of the city and the sea.
To the right in this photo is the Church of St. George, built in the model of an ancient Doric temple.

We walked further down this bay to the site of Anemomylos – a model of the original windmills that existed during Venetian times to provide inhabitants with grain.

A very enjoyable lunch at a nearby restaurant.

See the boats in the background? They are your everyday sailboats and runabouts that we are used to seeing on the west coast in Canada. But…yachts like this one don’t sail into Nanaimo every day.

Sailing under a British flag, we wondered about the occupants. This was not even the biggest yacht in the harbour, just the closest one. Corfu, after all, is an international destination, with lots of very well-heeled guests setting foot onshore.

Since this yacht was probably not British royalty, we set off in search of the next best thing – the estate that belonged to the former Greek royal family and the birthplace of Prince Philip. The estate, called Mon Repos, is set in a beautiful forested area just outside Old Town. It is a neoclassical mansion overlooking the sea that sat empty for 25 years before being restored and today is a museum.
It was interesting, but could have used a bit more information about the former occupants, including the fact that there is small house on the property that belonged to Tito.

Greece has such a long history of turmoil, wars and occupations, but there is a statue in Old Town devoted to a freedom fighter named Kostas Georgakis, who died in 1970. Students in Corfu have a vibrant history of activism and being involved in protests for democracy, but Kostas made the ultimate sacrifice when he self-immolated in Genoa, Italy in protest against the Greek military junta of 1967-74.

And now, the beaches. You are spoiled for choice on Corfu; in fact the water all around Old Town is so clear and crystal, it would have been tempting just to stay here and swim.

We had read good things about Paleostriksa Beach – a town with six beaches, half of them only accessible by boat. We grabbed a bus and less than an hour later, we were dropped off at a main beach that was already packed with people. We managed to find a small beach away from the fray, and even better – the sunbeds were free with a nominal food purchase.

While this was not our ideal Greek beach, it was fine – quiet, with clean, clear water.

The view from our sunbeds. We were told by our server that most Greeks don’t swim here, they go south. While this water was bracing, it was still warmer than what we’re used to back home.

And this brings me to my earlier point. If you come here, don’t ignore the rest of the island. There are a ton of beaches to check out, and depending upon day trips won’t allow for the best possible exploration of the island. A car rental is helpful, but not strictly necessary. The bus system is terrific, so it is possible to travel easily from one place to the next by bus, and stay for a while in each spot.

Corfu is one of those places that is over-touristed. It will be a bit crazy at times, and at other times you will find yourself wandering an alleyway all alone. That is the survival guide to much of Greece and a guide that I am understanding better. No point in feeling confounded.

We’re on the ferry to Albania tomorrow; anticipating a whole other tourist experience!