Tirana: Haunted by the past, but running toward the future.

You wouldn’t call Tirana a beautiful city, but it has a beating heart and is vibrant and highly walkable. It was battered and bruised and neglected for years and while some of the architecture shows Ottoman influences, a great deal more leans to Soviet-era buildings. Between 1944 and 1991, vast tracts of massive featureless apartment … More Tirana: Haunted by the past, but running toward the future.

Gjirokaster: The Albania We Were Looking For

We were beginning to wonder if all the rave reviews we had read about Albania were exaggerated. We had an image in our minds of Albania (medieval villages, narrow cobblestoned streets, olive groves and vineyards) that we just weren’t seeing until we left the frenetic beach scene of Ksamil, drove up into the mountains and … More Gjirokaster: The Albania We Were Looking For