Leaving Ourselves Behind

We were so excited to include Singapore in our travels, but we were also prepared for a spendier excursion. Singapore’s reputation as one of the world’s most expensive cities preceded a visit here; an island filled with glass towers and deluxe shopping malls. It is all of that, of course.

We saw a sign posted advertising a 1-bdrm., 1000-sq.-ft. apartment for $7000 a month. (Singaporean dollars and Canadian dollars are close in value).

Car ownership in Singapore is outrageously expensive – the most expensive worldwide. Ten-year costs run between $200,000- $250,000 for an average sedan – MUCH more for a luxury car. Every car requires a certificate of entitlement – $70,000 – $100,000, then add the vehicle cost, taxes, insurance, maintenance, parking and gas and it puts the cost of car ownership out of the reach of most Singaporeans.

We’ve already seen two Rolls-Royce and the usual fleet of Lexus, BMWs, Mercedes, etc. are run-of-the-mill. The up-and-coming cars are the electric BYDs (Build Your Dreams) – a dream that starts at $160,000 and runs to $240,000, depending upon the model.

HOWEVER…there is still plenty of room for folks to live here and visit here. This beautiful apartment complex (in the background) was just down the road from us – it is public housing that would serve as a model for cities worldwide. Clean, free of litter and garbage, well-lit, and well-maintained.

Singapore feels incredibly safe – possibly because they have strict laws (including the death penalty), and partly because Singaporeans are incredibly friendly and helpful and approachable by nature.

As a budget-conscious tourist, the big challenge is finding affordable accommodation – once that is done, the rest is easy. We booked a large, comfortable room that includes a kitchenette and washing machine, housed in the very stylish Habyt Cantonment, a former police dispatch building for uniforms and supplies. It has been completely updated with a central lounge, pool and gardens. We’re paying less than $200 a night.

Food? Oh my goodness – the food here is unbelievable, and so cheap. I’m talking about hawker courts – where dozens upon dozens of food stalls sell everything from Malay, Chinese, Japanese, Filipino, Vietnamese dishes, and yes, if you have to, burgers and pizza. Most dishes are $4-$10 per plate and a number of stalls have Michelin mentions. (We still have to try the chicken and rice that was recommended by the late Anthony Bourdain – always a huge lineup).

It’s a wonderful experience – everyone shares tables, and chats and then you pick up your dirty trays and take them to the bus stations, and that’s it. Fabulous food, convivial atmosphere and you won’t spend $20 for two. Alcohol is another story – it is quite expensive. Bottles of beer run $10 and up, so we just buy from the grocery store and have a cold $2 Tiger in our room or in the lounge.

There are many fabulous restaurants in Singapore, where you dress up, eat on nice dishes and don’t have to bus your own table and naturally the bill will be higher. But…the food might not be better and that is what I love about Singapore. If you are not wealthy, you still belong here and most of the city is open to you.

Mind you, there is no question that striving for excellence is part of the culture here. I was quite taken by the juxtaposition of these two stores. The first one has a sign in the window that struck me as more Western, less Asian.

Right next door, the concept of “good enough” doesn’t fly. This is a pre-kindergarten prep school, which ensures your 5-year-old will be “writing creatively” before entering the educational fray. Raising children to be winners.

Seriously, what parent wants their child to be a loser? Perhaps there is something to this approach to life and discipline and learning that we could all take a page from.

Discipline does not exclude humour, creativity and a little snarky attitude.

This sign, on an Italian restaurant. Do NOT get on the wrong side of this guy.

Don’t you think if you were trying to encourage clients to part with their hard-earned cash in exchange for your financial expertise, you might level up from a sign pasted on a wall with packing tape?

We’re not sure if this is an art installation or the Airbnb from hell.

Singapore is a city of neighbourhoods, and we’re trying to see as many of them as we can. Hindered by 30+ degree heat and humidity, we travel a little more leisurely than we normally do, and we’re always back at our hotel by 3:00 for a couple of hours before heading out for the evening.

Chinatown here is a marvel – twisty little alleys, magnificent temples, loads of shops – and it’s all dressed up for the upcoming Chinese New Year.

If you look at the windows in the photo above, they are typical of the many types of shophouses in Chinatown – the curved design, the shutters. Here is a diagram of some of the typical shophouses to be found in Singapore.

A lot of the shophouses still have their original signs – in this case, this restaurant still appears to be selling “rattan mats”.

The magnificent Buddha Tooth Relic Temple.

On certain days, it is possible to see the Buddha Tooth, but it was not open for viewing when we were there.

Another fabulous neighbourhood is Tiong Bahru – one of Singapore’s oldest residential areas, and a stunning example of 1930s architecture. Street after street is filled with this type of low-rise housing, softened with pathways and greenery between buildings. It’s an impressive example of housing density that works well for safe, dignified, and affordable housing.

Tiong Bahru is well-known for its intricate murals that tell stories of everyday life. Here are three of the best.

Stephen decided to be part of the street scene.

From Tiong Bahru, we popped over to Orchard Street, Singapore’s famous high-end shopping mecca – a 2-km. corridor of fancy shops and sleek malls.

Pavilion Mall celebrating Year of the Horse.

Typical street scene on Orchard.

Singapore Botanic Gardens has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site for its history (165 years old) and variety of species. One tree is the last surviving tree in Singapore – when it is gone, it will be extinct. I took a photo which was simply a jumble of brown and green, but this is the type of garden this is. Home to the endemic and the nearly-extinct; accompanied by a roster of beautiful birds (we were there mid-day – they were hiding), but that did not stop a small army of birders from staking out spots and waiting for appearances.

We did see some otters and a few of these guys – the Clouded Monitor lizard, about two feet long. This is the ground-dwelling and smaller cousin to the monster Malayan Water Monitor. We saw the big guys in Melacca – they look like small crocodiles at three meters long.

This is Part 1 of our Singapore blog posting – Part 2 will come out in a couple of days. There was just way too much to tell you about in one blog.

We’re only here for one week and if you are considering coming to Singapore, I suggest you give yourself at least 10 days, maybe two weeks. This is a truly wonderful city with so much to see and do, and we will regretfully leave a bit too soon.