Leaving Ourselves Behind

Raffles Hotel, like much of Singapore, began life modestly as a 10-room inn in 1887. From there, it grew and expanded, attracting a colourful clientele with the likes of Somerset Maugham, Rudyard Kipling and Noel Coward warming the barstools in the famous Writer’s Bar.

Named after British diplomat and founder of modern Singapore, Sir Stamford Raffles, today’s Raffles Hotel was freshly restored in 2019 and has been named “One of the World’s Top 5 Hotels.”

We roamed the grounds and admired the gentility and grace of such a storied establishment.

However when we arrived at the Main Lobby, we were stopped by a kind but firm gentleman in colonial attire who prevented us from entering, as ” the lobby is for guests only.”

Fair enough, with room rates starting at $1500 a night (breakfast not included), there should be some level of exclusivity attached.

He did allow us to step in and take our photo though, as a keepsake.

We were directed to the Long Bar, birthplace of the famous Singapore Sling. This cocktail was created in 1915 as a work-around, as it was considered poor etiquette for women to drink in public. The bartender added gin and liqueurs to the frothy fruit juices and women could join the fun discreetly.

Today, it is de rigueur to visit the Long Bar and order a Singapore Sling, but we stopped by at 11:00 am, and just couldn’t face a sugary alcoholic drink. However, we hung out long enough to soak up a little old-time ambience. There is something about dark polished wood and whirring fans…

History-soaked beverages are not the only tempting drink on offer in Singapore. There are numerous vending machines around town with freshly squeezed orange juice for just $2! The machine is filled with whole oranges that swivel and drop down to be squeezed into a cup – nothing added but fresh juice. So delicious, and so much appreciated in the heat.

The Marina Bay Sands Hotel complex is a sight to behold; the entire waterfront area is a phantasmagoria of futuristic design, over-the-top architecture and unabashed excess.

Designed by famed architect Moshe Safdie in 2010, the Marina Bay Sands complex houses a hotel, conference centre, casino, museum, shops, restaurants and theatre.

The hotel is three towers topped by the Sands Skypark, which includes the world’s largest infinity pool (for guests only.)

The hotel lit up at night.

One wing of the shopping mall, known colloquially as “The Shoppes.“

The Riverwalk that circles Marina Bay offers endless skyscraper sightlines.

The Merlion Sculpture is a top attraction.

The goal of photo-seekers everywhere is to capture that shot where the Merlion is spouting water right into your mouth. (Much like the one where you prop up the Leaning Tower of Pisa).

From my angle, it looked like this young woman had a few tries ahead of her.

Right across the road is the staggering Gardens By the Bay. Comprised of numerous themed gardens, sculptures,and lakes, one could spend hours there just wandering about.

There are a number of attractions that appeared to be quite sensational – Flower Dome and Cloud Forest were two – housed in gigantic glass domes, but we took a pass. HUGE crowds and more than $100 were a bit off-putting, so we just really savoured our time wandering the grounds.

We stayed for the light show at the Supertree Grove – six massive trees illuminated with a light and music show.

Our walk back out of the gardens.

Walking around the downtown area is guaranteed to strain your neck as you try and take in the hundreds of fabulous buildings.

Singapore is a master of illusion. When you look at Parkview Square, an art deco beauty modelled after those found in Europe and New York City, you would never know it was built in 2002!

Its entrance is flanked by polished marble and art installations.

Step inside, and there is not one detail left out – this could be a NYC watering hole from the 30’s.

Before all this splendour and wealth and polished brass, there existed a very different reality. In Chinatown, from the 1850s on, Upper Nankin Street was a squalid squatter settlement of Chinese coolie labourers; the most densely populated area of the city, filled with disease, poverty and misery.

This statue pays tribute to those very difficult times.

We visited a couple of older neighbourhoods that also gave different glimpses into Singapore’s past.

Kapong Gelam is home to the Sultan Mosque, built in 1824.

Its surrounding streets are filled with colourful stalls selling textiles, carpets and products from Middle Eastern countries such as Syria, Lebanon and Turkey.

This area also has a number of colourful murals.

The ghosts of past shopkeepers.

And this stern warning. While I really appreciate not being harassed and tormented by persistent sellers, I’m not sure I’d want to see them do jail time.

Another historic area is Katong-Joo Chiat; an area known for its pastel homes with tiled trim, from the 1920’s. It is also rich in Peranakan history – people who are descendants from the 15th and 17th centuries.

One thing we also noticed in this neighbourhood was the number of shops devoted to dogs. Not just your usual grooming places, but next-level services.

A doggie grocery store.

A spa?

At first, I read this as being pet therapy – possibly to help with separation anxiety or discourage those little mutts who bite. But then, I caught on – a twee play on words.

And…the little mutts themselves.

Singapore was a fabulous experience and we leave wanting more. Next time…

Tomorrow we fly back to Malaysia, to Langkawi for a week-long beach holiday. I’m looking forward to Singapore’s Changi Airport – considered one of the best in the world.