“If you go to St. Vincent’s, you’ll see humpbacks not 20 metres offshore,” we heard from reliable sources. St. Vincent’s is a small village on the “Irish Loop” – the southern part of the Avalon Peninsula where a majority of Irish immigrants settled hundreds of years ago. The beach is very unusual, as it has a … More The Avalon Peninsula: city life and wild open spaces
The last time we were in Newfoundland was almost 40 years ago. A friend was studying at Memorial University so we flew in from Toronto for a week’s visit. That visit involved late nights and alcohol, so our memories are a bit tainted but St. John’s had a rough edge then. Now there’s shiny new … More St. John’s – You’re all growed up!
We were not holding out much hope of seeing them – their peak time is early May to mid-June, with a few trickling into early July. However, this year has been a banner year for icebergs and a cautionary tale for mankind, unless you are a climate change denier. They are a thrilling but bittersweet … More Icebergs!
So we’re finally here – in Newfinlan, affectionately known as The Rock. It takes exactly five minutes to figure out why – this island is built to last. After we landed in Port au Basques, our first destination was Gros Morne National Park – about a four-hour drive up the western coast. There is a … More Life is sweet on The Rock
Even if secondhand shopping is not your thing, a trip to Frenchy’s is a must-do. This uniquely Nova Scotian ode to bargain shopping has spawned bus tours and inspired a book. Founded in 1972, the chain has a dozen or so stores that dot the province. Goods, both new and secondhand, are brought in by … More On the road to Frenchy’s
According to a recent article, Halifax is going through a bit of a boom and it has a lot more to do with its desirable lifestyle than with the proliferation of (building) cranes on the waterfront. As major Canadian cities become increasingly unaffordable and unliveable, this is a city that knows how to look ahead … More Halifax is the next big thing
For a number of years before we moved to Halifax in 2000, we sent away for the NS Tourism annual guide, “The Doer and Dreamer’s Guide to Nova Scotia.” It was better than the Christmas catalogue, filled with activities, events, festivals and photos of lobster suppers, lighthouses and crashing ocean waves. It’s the crashing waves that got … More The Doer and Dreamer’s Guide to Nova Scotia
We lived in Halifax for five years, and returning here after a 10-year absence was one of the most anticipated parts of our trip across Canada. Driving into Nova Scotia from New Brunswick demands that you pay attention. You are given advance warning, but you have just one chance. The road splits right and left; … More Sailboats, lobster rolls and wild roses: Summer on the South Shore
…a sign in downtown Fredericton warning motorists against cutting across traffic to get to Timmy’s. Or this, near Florenceville – home to one of the world’s largest frozen french fry producers. Or this – a food truck unabashedly dedicated to potatoes, cheese, gravy, chocolate, bacon and Mars bars – most of it deep-fried. We LOVE … More You know you’re in Atlantic Canada when you see this…
Five bucks goes to the first person who can tell me what a duster is. This ephemera is part of the Lorne Katz collection. Another five bucks goes to the person who knows who “Ed” is. Ed is Ed Mirvish, the late, great one-of-a-kind businessman who built theatres, restaurants and Honest Ed’s – a square-city-block … More So long Ontario, bonjour Quebec et Nouveau Brunswick
Leaving Ourselves Behind 